If anyone of you has not yet been to the Zielona Brama (Green Gate) Restaurant in Przywidz, the place is a must-visit for all enthusiasts of exquisite cuisine. It is a perfect place to go with your family and friends, also to enjoy a number of other attractions offered there. The complex includes a guesthouse, a hotel, a restaurant, a pierogi bar, a horse stud and a skiing and snowboarding centre. The offer is attractive both for tourists and for business.
The restaurant’s interior is decorated in a plain, classic style. The combination of wood and raw brick gives it a warm and cosy atmosphere. Original tables without tablecloths, sewn pillows, and large windows affording a magnificent view add to the overall impression, and the place seems to be an ideal one to rest after an actively spent day.
Chef Tomasz Szydzikowski, whose masterly cuisine it was possible to relish last year at the Spichrz Restaurant in Borcz, specializes in goose dishes. The menu features mainly old Polish and regional cuisine, with international and signature elements. This amounts to a cuisine with a good dose of originality and strong signature accents. Apart from goose, other meats reign supreme in this restaurant, too, including ducks, guineafowl, and fish – Baltic sea fish as well as freshwater fish from the nearby Kashubian lakes. There is plenty to choose from. The guiding principle behind the dishes is the use of local and fresh ingredients.
Because the Zielona Brama Restaurant is a fairly new spot on the culinary map of Pomorskie, its chef needed a reconnaissance to learn the tastes and preferences of diners. In order to learn them, for several weeks before the great opening day he organized tasting events, during which he could talk to the guests, ask about their opinions, and certainly delight everyone with his culinary artistry and extraordinary hospitality.
This is just the kind of welcome we received. The chef made every effort to ensure not only that our taste impressions were placed on a pedestal but also that every tiniest detail of table decoration made for a warm and cosy atmosphere.
The first dish served to us was salad, based on a composition of various leaves, mâche, a wide array of herbs, little raspberry tomatoes, cucumber and red onions. But it was duck that played the leading role in this case, pink-roasted for a very short time and thinly sliced. The composition was complemented by vinaigrette sauce on the basis of raspberry juice and by fresh raspberries. It is with such a nice colourful starter that we set off for a journey into the world of flavours, of which this tender and delicate salad was a perfect beginning.
To warm up, we ordered barley soup. The chef recommends a “Tuchola version” of barley soup – based, as he says, on king bolete and bay bolete mushrooms from the Tuchola Forest. Perfectly balanced in taste and smelling of forest, it is ideal for chilly evenings.
The main course is perch wrapped up in a leaf of savoy cabbage, gently stewed at a low temperature in wine-based chanterelle and cream sauce, served with pearl barley. Wrapped up in a leaf, the fish retains its juicy quality, remains fresh and melts in the mouth, and the taste composition is nothing short of successful. If you like fish, this is a dish that I strongly recommend.
Of course, we used the opportunity to ask about the pierogi bar, well known in the entire vicnity as the place that, for 5 years now, has been treating its guests to 20 kinds of boiled pierogi (including pierogi with pumpkin, vanilla sauce and ginger, pierogi with black pudding and cinnamon, pierogi with broad beans, with salmon or with goose meat). When visiting this place next time, we must try these delicacies, whose originality and taste combinations will certainly make a great impression.
My main course is goose leg with young cabbage, baked apple, fried pear and with a preserve of pumpkin, dried plums and cranberries. It tastes as fantastic as it sounds. The meat is perfectly juicy and tender. What adds character to the dish is the Rubin (Ruby) apple, served in an incredibly exquisite manner: full of sweetness and perfectly juicy, filled with cabbage, which, as we well know, makes a huge impression on a broad range of consumers. The cabbage is lightly stewed in goose fat with a substantial admixture of honey, cranberries, dried plums, red wine and vinegar. The flavours wonderfully merge into a consistent whole, with meat as the main accent. The manner of serving bewildered me for a moment – the dish was so beautiful that you felt sorry to eat it.
The composition and taste of dishes on the plate as well as their appropriate preparation are definitely the strong points that make the Zielona Brama Restaurant worth visiting. Without doubt, this is a restaurant where the chef knows his trade and will steal many a palate. This is a place where no first visit will be the last and we will make it a permanent spot on our route of flavours.
Text and photos: Joanna Ogórek
Gdańska 26, Przywidz
Phone. +48 58 682 51 55
[mapa]Gdańska 26, Przywidz[/mapa]