Feast in Leśny Dwór in Sulęczyno
This story needs to be told from the very end, from the dessert. Le Kir Royal sorbet, a piece of culinary art that will make you crave for more: red currant, dark chocolate, smooth brown butter ice-cream, and black lilac sorbet with lemon. To say that it’s delicious is to say nothing. Responsible for this beauty is Marcin Popielarz, who has been able to actually make brown butter ice-cream without lumps, and it’s not an easy task.
I’m talking to a chef that knows his trade, and perceives cooking not only in terms of combining flavours and textures, but also as a series of chemical reactions.
The menu of Leśny Dwór restaurant in Sulęczyno reflects this thinking process. Marcin Popielarz is the supervising chef. You might know him from Biały Królik restaurant in Gdynia. For over a year now he has been “stationed” in Sulęczyno, in a picturesque manor by the lake.
The menu in Leśny Dwór is simply, yet tempting. It is based on regional flavours, with plenty of fish and vegetarian dishes. I know the chef loves to experiment with vegetarian cuisine, so ordering anything blindly will be a good decision. There are several delicacies, however, that stand out: roasted cauliflower with carrot-top salsa verde and celeriac remoulade, and broccoli with polonaise sauce. However, the real specialty of the house is their duck. If you’re there, don’t forget to try it!
While you’re at it, make sure to at least take a sip of the insanely delicious crayfish soup, inspired by the recipes of the late Paule Bocuse. If you’d like a more traditional Polish approach, try the smooth “chłodnik” (cold bortsch) with bacon – a rare ingredient that is a reference to traditional Polish recipes), or broccoli with polonaise sauce. Or the duck! Served with currant sauce, red cabbage and vegetables in batter, it makes you savour every single bite.
You can continue indulging yourself at home by purchasing a set of house-made preserves. The idea of packing seasonal fruit and vegetables into jars is a “side effect” of the pandemic. The delightful jars and bottles contain different treasures, from Polish kimchi, through ketchup, to various types of jams (try Mirabelle plum and ginger or rhubarb with juniper flavours!). None of the products contain white sugar or artificial preservatives, and they are 100% vegan. The no. 1 hit is vegan brown butter, which can be served with steam-cooked veggies.
All the products can be purchased in the Leśny Dwór, Biały Królik in Gdynia. A bag of these products make for a perfect gift! So, if you want to surprise anyone (or even yourself, for that matter), hop in a car or on a train heading straight to Kaszuby for some real Kashubian delicacies.
Stefana Żeromskiego 15, Sulęczyno
phone.: +48 58 684 50 16