Łukasz Stafiej (www.lukaszstafiej.pl)

Pomorskie. A culinary journey across flavours

11.10.2018

More and more conscious consumers, as well as more and more demanding restaurant guests like to be surprised, and treated to dishes they would not normally prepare in their home kitchen. Chefs from Pomorskie region can satisfy even the most demanding palates. The most prominent ones gladly undertake uneasy culinary tasks.

What is modern cooking? It is, without doubt, re-defining well-known dishes. Searching for old recipes and adapting them to fit modern clients. It is discovering exotic flavours and products, but also pining for what our ancestors consumed. This is why sprats, liver, or thymus are no strangers to our plates.

Menus of top restaurants of Tricity are full of unique and surprising dishes. Marcin Szlagowski, head chef in Gdańsk-based Filharmonia restaurant encourages to take on bull testicles.

-Offal is back, and that is a fact. It used to be associated with the communist era in Poland, but nowadays liver, cheeks, or beef marrow are unsurprising elements of menus of exclusive restaurants. However, bull testicles that we serve in our restaurant are still underestimated by guests – says Marcin Szlagowski.

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The chef’s philosophy is simple: use the animal from nose to tail. In what respect are bull testicles worse from clod, leg, or other offal? It is all the matter of idea and getting the flavour out. The greatest challenge proves to be the breaking of psychological barrier.

-Bull testicles are an excellent product. They allow us to serve our guests a dish that is going to be pretty simple, yet unique in flavour – explains Marcin Szlagowski. – In Filharmonia restaurant, we serve bull testicles with smoked white chocolate. Top quality Belgian chocolate is smoked according to the head chef’s original recipe. Other products are delivered by local suppliers. Experiencing this dish allows all the fears regarding offal to dissipate and to be completely unfounded – adds the chef.

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Goose and game meat also seem to experience a renaissance.  Secretariat restaurant in Sopot, offers exquisite wild boar ham meat roulades.

-They take some time to prepare – says Ewa Podlaska from Secretariat restaurant. – The meat is first marinated in red wine, thyme, and root vegetables. This makes it brittle, delicate, and aromatic. The stuffing is a kind of nod to tradition.

It consists of smoked bacon, onions, and cranberry. – The meat is rolled and goes into the oven for almost an hour, where it becomes tender. We have to remember that wild boar meat is extremely low-fat, which makes the preparation process longer – explains Ewa Podlaska.

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-Then, the roulades are cooked au jus. Cooked roulades give off a Christmas-like aroma of roasted meat, herbs, and cranberry. For sidings, I have decided upon caramelised shallots, which are also marinated for 24 hours in red wine and thyme marinade, and afterwards fried with a pinch of honey. Fresh chanterelle mushrooms are purchased directly from local, certified suppliers in Kaszuby region. However, the distinct aroma is obtained by frying them on butter – says Tomasz Górniak, head chef at Secretariat restaurant.

Culinary journey across flavours, not only for the daring. Restaurants in Pomorskie region guarantee unforgettable culinary experience.

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