The Ciekocinko Palace Hotel Resort & Wellness is situated in the seaside village of Ciekocinko. The Mierzeja Sarbska Nature Reserve is in the vicinity, which makes the location of the facility very attractive due to the wide range of recreation options.
This is a high-class place for people who value first-rate leisure. The attractions awaiting guests include: horse riding, yachting, diving, golf, sightseeing in the nearby areas, a trout smoking chamber, wine tasting, or palace library. The sense of taste will be satisfied in the local tea room and bistro club, but above all in the local 1906 Gourmet Restaurant, which attracts true gourmets. In season, guests have a summer terrace at their disposal.
Decorated in a style of very classic elegance, the place offers its guests a cosy climate of heavy curtains, oak wood, stylish furniture, and Art Nouveau wallpapers. Because of the dignified atmosphere only adults with children aged 12 or above are invited to the restaurant, and the dress code is strictly defined as smart casual.
Chef Paweł Dołżonek maintains the local tradition of Polish cuisine in a modern style. Regional customs and products dominate, but every detail is given a new form, worthy of a culinary work of art. The creators of the 1906 Gourmet Restaurant are followers of the idea of Comfort Food, which recommends combining a meal with a sense of wellbeing, happiness, and serenity.
This exceptionally dignified atmosphere makes us feel like habitués of fashionable Parisian restaurants of the 1920s. We test the autumn menu, which – as you will have a chance see and read – is a delight to the palate and to the eye alike. Our tasting has an element of pleasant surprise to it.
It is there from the very beginning, when we try musk pumpkin cream with lime froth, sprinkled with coriander seeds and a few drops of balsamic vinegar. Served in white piece of china tableware with a handle, covered with aromatic froth, it resembles cappuccino at first glance – and it tastes delicious!
Taking advantage of the fact that our visit coincides with the peak of tomato season, we appreciate the way the taste and aroma of tomatoes are presented on the plate at the Ciekocinko Palace. We try a mixture of yellow, green, watermelon, and cherry tomatoes in a sauce of six herbs (chervil, tarragon, lovage, dill, mint, and basil). This comes with sour milk in a cream roll baked of wheat dough. Violet and yarrow sprinkled with black olive powder make the dish complete. It tastes as vivid as it looks.
This is not the end of vegetarian flavours. Stewed chicory is served to our table in a stock of edelweiss, wine, orange juice, and saffron – lightly caramelized. With that, there is cheese ripening in a coating of croissant crumbs and ground almonds. Draped in a sauce of red peppers and parsley oil, the dish is remarkably aromatic and harmonized in taste.
As befits a seaside resort, time came for fish. The dish that we find particularly intriguing in the autumn menu is Baltic cod sous vide in onion ash, served with purée of onions, vermouth froth, and pieces of violet cauliflower. On a six-point scale, the colourful composition on the plate deserves the top score of six. The fish is delicate and sophisticated in taste, gently winey. Just perfect.
It is time for a dessert. Deriving from the Italian tradition, panna cotta acquires a new character here thanks to black elder. Black elder fruit and juice, thin paper with black elder purée, and coconut sorbet have been added to it. Its texture is smooth and its taste is balanced.
Every dish served at the Ciekocinko Palace resembles a piece of poetry or a work of art. You can look at it, you can describe it in many ways, but you cannot possibly resist tasting it. And, most importantly, balance between form and content is maintained.
Text and photos: Joanna Ogórek
1906 GOURMET RESTAURANT
Ciekocinko 9, Choczewo
phone: + 48 58 572 25 08
[mapa]Ciekocinko 9, Choczewo[/mapa]