The Kozi Gród is a must-visit for those exquisite cuisine enthusiasts who have not been there yet. It is a perfect place to go for a weekend with your family or friends and to enjoy other attractions that the Kozi Gród has in store. Located 25 kilometres (15 miles) from Gdańsk, in the delightful green vicinity of Pomlewo, the hotel and restaurant offer a number of leisure activities.
The hotel complex includes facilities such as: a spa with a swimming pool, a pond where you can ride a pedal boat in the season, an extreme park, tennis courts, a volleyball court, a playground for children, and many other attractions that will fill the time not only for hotel guests but also for the restaurant’s customers. In the garden near the hotel there is a place for a bonfire or a grill shelter. On Sunday afternoons you can drop by the restaurant for a culinary fête, which gives you a chance to taste a broad array of dishes offered at the Kozi Gród. The mascot of the place is Gutek the goat – an inhabitant of the hotel, whom guests invariably adore.
The restaurant’s interior is decorated in a simple, classical, elegant style. The combination of wood and raw brick gives it a warm and cosy quality. The Chef, Przemysław Formela, specializes in game. The menu contains Kashubian and Polish dishes as well as ones from other cuisines of the world. What deserves attention is home-made liqueurs, pâtés, and preserves. We tried the restaurant’s specialities: game-based dishes. Game has long been known to go together superbly with the forest taste of mushrooms; the chef of the Kozi Gród makes excellent use of this knowledge, creating surefire flavours and pleasantly surprising combinations.
Traditionally, we begin with an appetizer. The venison tartare with marinated saffron milk caps and a spiced toast is indeed exquisite. The meat is served on a toast. Spices complement the forest-like taste, making a composition that is perfect to the palate. The meat is delicate and fresh, and the saffron milk caps are a true rarity!
It is time for a soup. As a warm-up we order broth, but not the traditional one. The chef offers roasted duck and pheasant broth. We are curious about the result. Darker than the broths we know, the soup is served with home-made dumplings. Perfectly balanced in taste, slightly fatty, and smelling of game, it is perfect for summer days.
When it comes to the main course, we stick to the climate of autumn forest. We choose wild duck fillet in caramelized plum sauce, served with a roast of potatoes and stewed mushrooms. The duck likes sweet company, so we have no doubt that the caramelized plum sauce is an inspired choice on the chef’s part and at the same time an alternative for the traditional apples or oranges. The meat is perfectly roasted and juicy. The dish is complemented by vegetable trimmings, namely roasted potato and forest mushrooms.
After the substantial dinner, time came for dessert. We go for mango and cowberries with a scoop of creamy ice-cream – which means a flavour of the forest comes in again. The surprising combination of cowberry and mango tastes really superb. The dessert is light and balanced in taste. This pleasant element concludes our feast at the Kozi Gród.
There is one conclusion to be drawn after our visit: if you feel like game meat, you must absolutely make a visit to the Kozi Gród. Chef Przemysław Formela certainly knows his trade and will not disappoint your palate.
Text and photos: Joanna Ogórek
Leśników 3, Pomlewo k/ Gdańska
phone: +48 58 692 07 80
[mapa]ul. Leśników 3, Pomlewo[/mapa]