Driving from Żukowo in the direction of Kościerzyna, we pass Borcz on the way – a small village consisting of a few houses and what is now the Spichrz Hotel. The history of Borcz goes back to the 15th c. Since that time the Borcz estate has had its ups and downs and changed owners many times. It was not until after 1999, when the manor and park complex finally passed into the hands of a private owner, that the place began to regain its charm. The renovation and adaptation of granary buildings made it possible to set up a three-star hotel and an atmospheric restaurant.
As we cross the threshold, a spacious interior resembling old-time wineries meest our eyes. The original granary interior of has been preserved, with brick and stone dominating. The small windows let little light in, but warm lighting creates a very atmospheric mood. The room is divided by racks with quite a large collection of wines from all over the world.
The cuisine that reigns here is Kashubian flavours with a predominance of goose meat, which has become a kind of flagship food of the restaurant. Right on arrival we noticed the signboard, informing us about “goose meat served in five ways.”
Unable to resist this advertisement, we ordered no less than three goose dishes. For an appetizer, a waiter suggested goose tartare served with a quail egg yolk. Classically chopped meat turned out to have a velvety consistency, intertwined with the crunchy trio of cucumber, onion, and pickled mushrooms. Those who like tartare will return, and those who do not should start their adventure with it right here.
We were tempted to try two soups: goose broth and the forgotten goose blood soup, and so we asked for both. The broth, interesting in taste, warmed us up that autumn day. Served with batter dumplings, pieces of goose meat, carrots, and parsley leaves, it was the essence of home-made broth.
As for goose blood soup, we approached it with less confidence, since it is a special dish and requires considerable skill to prepare. The soup had a consistency of sweet-and-sour cream cream, with perceptible flavours of spices. Dried plums and apple as well as parsley and carrot chips complemented the taste. This soup was also served with batter dumplings.
After such a lavish beginning, we boldly faced other dishes. Interesting in appearance, the cod and salmon patchwork turned out to be a true masterpiece. Two fish, each one different, perfectly prepared – well seasoned and served on a courgette pancake. The company of a cocktail tomato salad refreshingly counterpointed delicate fish meat.
Goose is the royal dish of the place. In this case, goose breast was served braised – pot-roasted in its own gravy. Three fairly large pieces of meat served with cranberry sauce and trimmings in the form of classically grilled potatoes as well as red cabbage stewed in wine and served in an apple.
For dessert, we ordered hot apple pie with vanilla ice-cream. Beautifully served on a “cobweb” of raspberry and orange sauce, it was a worthy conclusion of the Sunday dinner.
We consider our visit to the Borcz Hotel successful. We were looking for regional goose flavours and found them here. The restaurant’s undeniable asset is also its location – by the main route to Kashubia, which we visit so gladly.
Goose tartare – 29 PLN
Goose blood soup – 15 PLN
Broth – 15 PLN
Fish duet – 36 PLN
Braised goose – 46 PLN
Apple pie – 14 PLN
Text and photos: Iwona Kowalska
Borcz 4, Hopowo
phone: +48 58 694 03 00
+48 58 694 03 43
kom. +48 667 120 000
fax +48 58 694 03 33
[mapa]Borcz 4, Hopowo[/mapa]