The Tłusta Kaczka (Fat Duck) is a restaurant undoubtedly worth visiting when in the Tricity – not only for the exceptionally exquisite Polish cuisine it offers or delicious sourdough bread baked on the spot but also for the interior with interesting décor ideas and a unique ambience. Located near Klif shopping centre in Gdynia, the restaurant can be an excellent place to unwind after shopping. But any occasion is good to visit the Tłusta Kaczka, and everyone who has been there at least once knows this.
The dominant motif in the restaurant’s décor is wood in its natural form. Yet, cosy as it is, the interior does not resemble a folksy cottage at all. It is modern space, somewhat eclectic and sophisticated. There are natural birch stakes there, making up an openwork wall, but there are also designer deer heads made of wooden tiles. What strikes a guest first is certainly the smell of burnt wood coming from the fireplace. This extraordinary atmosphere prevents you from leaving the restaurant too quickly, for it must be admitted that this interesting space can make you feel better than at home.
Head Chef Tomasz Mrozik is a keen enthusiast of Polish cuisine, who can select what is best from it and prepare it in his own splendid way. His dishes are remarkably aromatic; they abound in interesting herb compositions and well-matched combinations of ingredients. We couldn’t wait to taste the effects of his passion.
As usual, we began from an appetizer. Our choice was slices of roasted beet with goat cheese flakes, pickled chanterelles, pattypan squash, orchid petals, and extra-virgin olive oil powder. The recently trendy combination of baked potato and goat cheese may seem banally simple to prepare, but only real masters of cooking are able to make it a masterpiece. Chefs at the Tłusta Kaczka definitely are masters. The sweetness of perfectly sliced and roasted beet splendidly merges with the salty taste of goat cheese. Accompanied by pickled chanterelles, pattypan squash, and orchid petals as trimmings, true poetry of flavours comes into being.
After this interesting taste composition, we felt like traditional Pomeranian flavours. We decided to give a try to a herring appetizer. The thing about pickled herring is that it feels good both in dry and in sweet company. The classic combination is herring with apples. At the Tłusta Kaczka, it is offered in a somewhat modernized version: marinated in home-made apple vinegar with thyme and apples, served over apple jelly with horseradish mousse, young potato crisps, and pickled cucumber sherbet. One thought comes to our minds after eating: absolute balance of flavours – perfectly sweet, lightly sour, properly salty, and gently spicy.
We were also delighted by sorrel and nettle cream soup. Actually, we remember what mother used to tell us from the times we were little: whatever is green is healthy. And tasty, too, let us add. This is by no means a usual soup, and the sous vide egg gives the cream a wonderful velvety taste.
It was difficult to decide on the main course, since all the items in the menu seemed delicious. We chose smoked duck breast with polenta, accompanied by strawberries, beetroot and fricassee of duck offal, raspberries, balsamic vinegar and green pepper This dish will be a first-rate delicacy for all enthusiasts of duck meat and its taste will leave a lasting memory. The delicious meat matched the sweetness of strawberries and raspberries very well, while balsamic vinegar and green pepper added character and piquancy to the entire dish.
The next main course proposal that we gave a try to was glazed pork cheeks sous vide (which means cooked in vacuum conditions), corned and boiled tongues on a bed of young cabbage and bacon fricassee, served with potato cake. This choice was hinted to us by the head chef, and it was definitely the right decision. Cheek meat was unbelievably delicate: it melted in the mouth. Potato cake in this case also turned out to be a delicious side dish – and we wholeheartedly recommend it to those who think that the potato is a dull vegetable. One couldn’t be more wrong.
There are people whose favourite part of a meal is dessert. Even though we value sweet and dry flavours alike, we always wait for this moment with the impatience of a child on our faces. If you like white chocolate, you must try the mousse they serve here. White chocolate and vanilla mousse with raspberries and roasted white chocolate ice cream is sheer white-chocolate ecstasy! Its sweetness is wonderfully counterpointed by the sour taste of raspberries.
After this visit to the Tłusta Kaczka Restaurant we feel relaxed. They have good food and ambience. What more could one want form an excellent restaurant?
Slices of roasted beet with goat cheese flakes, pickled chanterelles, pattypan squash, orchid petals, and extra-virgin olive oil powder – 18 PLN
Sorrel and young nettle cream soup with young wood sorrel and sous vide egg – 17 PLN
Smoked duck breast with polenta, strawberries, beetroot, and fricassee of duck offal, raspberries, balsamic vinegar, and green pepper – 48 PLN
Glazed pork cheeks sous vide, corned and boiled tongues on a bed of young cabbage and bacon fricassee, served with potato cake – 36 PLN
Herring marinated in home-made apple vinegar with thyme and apples, served over apple jelly with horseradish mousse, young potato crisps, and pickled cucumber sherbet – 24 PLN
White chocolate and vanilla mousse with raspberries and roasted white chocolate ice cream – 18 PLN
Text and photos: Joanna Ogórek
Spółdzielcza 2, Gdynia
Phone: + 48 58 580 08 08
Open every day from 13:00 to 23:00.
[mapa]Spółdzielcza 2, Gdynia[/mapa]