The heart of Gdynia, near Władysława IV street, one of the busiest streets in the city, is the location of Sztuczka restaurant. It is based in a classic, modernist tenement house. The name („Sztuczka” , Polish for „ trick”) is not accidental. Sitting at any of the tables, you often have the feeling that the dishes are effects of elaborate spells.
What is the secret to the amazing food served in Sztuczka? – One of the elements is certainly modernist tradition, cultivated by our cooks’ knowledge and passion – explains Jacek Koprowski (chef of Sztuczka Restaurant). – There is visible Asian influence, as well as Indian, Italian, and French. We mix styles and techniques, juggle flavors, and play in the kitchen. This is what it’s all about. We do our best to surprise our guests and make them feel at home. Such an approach allows us to deconstruct the classic Polish sour rye soup, vegetable salad, as well as tiramisu, or bouillabaise soup. We are inspired by all that surrounds us. We use both local, as well as seasonal products; but, if an idea comes to our minds, we don’t hesitate to use a lobster, or foie gras – says Jacek Koprowski.
From this come fantastic combinations that guests remember for a long time. Among the chef’s tricks are such delicacies as beef steak tartare with marinated red pepper, smoked mayonnaise, pistachio crumbles, coriander gel and olive, and spianata picante salads.
Guests are treated to foie gras with goose liver espume, caramelized orange puree, cherries in simmered beets and pangrattato.
Or maybe you’d prefer ravioli with smoked eel, and potatoes with homemade ricotta, leek and chanterelle puree and fried dill flowers? Palate-enchanting flavor combinations are virtually limitless here.
– We’re open to basically anything – laughs Piotr Wałęsa.
The head chef in Sztuczka restaurant is Jacek Koprowski. – My cooking is about constantly striving towards perfection, and getting the best out of the ingredients that are currently in high season, disassembling and re-assembling them in a completely new form, at the same time keeping its flavor intact – he says. – High quality of ingredients, as well as the overall taste of a dish are of utmost importance to me. It is a mix of styles, I draw a lot from Italian cuisine, on which I have gained my experience as a cook. I also have great respect for French fundamentals, and Asian influence – says Jacek Koprowski.
However, Gdynia and Pomorskie themselves provide plenty of inspiration. Sztuczka’s cooks frequently visit the renowned Gdynia Market Hall, which is famous for high quality products that are available there. Local producers and suppliers guarantee fresh Baltic salmon, turbot, and herring. Seasonal menu is abundant in asparagus dishes, or dishes with addition of the subtle Kashubian strawberry.
– Depending on the needs of particular menus, we prepare our own ricotta, dried bacon, or sauerkraut with saffron. We try to devote time to „learn” each product, and if we are not satisfied, then we come back to it after a while, a month or year, and try to approach it from a different perspective – explains Piotr Wałęsa.
The menu also contains a wide selection of regional alcoholic beverages, from tinctures and liqueurs, through ciders, to potato, barley, oat, rye, and wheat spirits.
Would you like to taste magic? You can, everyday, in Sztuczka restaurant in Gdynia.
Antoniego Abrahama 40, Gdynia
phone.: +48 58 622 24 94