It is a region of centuries-old tradition and the location of the Duchy of Słupsk, one of the first Pomeranian Duchies. The picturesque town and its surroundings have many interesting, hidden spots that are perfect for a winter expedition.
Słupsk and world’s largest collection of works by Witkacy!
I started my trip in the Museum of the Middle Pomerania in Słupsk, which surprised me with a wide range of exhibits. Of course, the unquestionable gem is the vast collection of works by Stanisław Ignacy Witkiewicz, commonly known as Witkacy. The museum is located downtown, in the so-called White Granary, although the complex comprises several other buildings. Not only aficionados of art will like the exhibition. Witkacy was a unique character. You don’t need to be a connoisseur to appreciate his genius. I was enchanted with both the scope and the atmosphere of the exhibition, as the entire tour takes place in half-light. Why? I learned in the museum that factors such as vibrations or lighting can have adverse effects on paper. It’s a bit surprising, but one of the multimedia expositions allows you to check how the works change in time depending on different conditions. This is why the museum is open only five days a week, allowing the exhibits to “rest”. There are more than 250 art pieces in the White Granary. Guest can admire the master’s paintings, graphics, and archives. What is remarkable is the combination of an artistic exhibition with kids’ attractions. They can paint their own paintings inspired by Witkacy, take posed photos, or construct creative buildings. It’s hard to spark kids’ interest in such a topic, but this place has succeeded in doing that.
Słupsk – migration, history, daily routine
The surprises are far from over. On the top floors of the museum, the exhibition Słupsk. Miasto i ludzie” is located. Here, you can learn exactly the population structure has shaped after World War II. Settlers came here to start their lives anew. Everybody dreamt of normality. Much effort was put into re-building of the town, with a lot of respect towards its former inhabitants. The museum has collected numerous mementos from the past, from both the pre- and post-war era. This allows you to take a peek into the daily life of townsfolk. It’s a touching, sentimental, and educational journey, perfect for a generational tour. Everybody will find something for themselves. Senior visitors can go back to the years of their youth, parents can teach their children about history, and the kids will be able to notice tremendous change that has occurred in recent years. After a trip like that, you should remember to treat yourself to a lunch.
Słupsk and the excellent slow food
Dym Na Wodzie (Smoke on the Water) in Słupsk is a true paradise of flavours. In the historical, post-German cantor, operated one of the best restaurants in the region. The choice of the venue itself says something about the taste and determination of its owner. The building required a thorough renovation. Everybody knows that taking care of places of historical value can be tedious. The original character of the place has been preserved by exposing elements of old brickyard, and the kitchen offers a delightful, short, seasonal menu. Regardless if you like game meat, oriental flavours, or are a vegetarian, you will not leave hungry. The owner keeps an eye on everything. You can see that everything is done with passion and top quality. My personal favourites, which I especially recommend, were the spicy cream of pumpkin soup and pulled pork ribs. I have never seen this dish served in such a way. Sides included cabbage with cranberries and pork jowl, buckwheat popcorn, pumpkin chutney, and roasted potatoes. I can guarantee that you’ll leave satisfied, this place is in a class of its own. I left Słupsk for Swołowo.
The Museum of Pomeranian Folk Culture
Located just a few minutes from the city by car, it’ll transport you to an entirely different land. Swołowo has a long history, with first written record dating back to the 13th century. What’s unusual is that it has retained its Medieval urban arrangement. Archaeologists working here have unearthed, among others, artifacts from the Roman era. If you take a stroll, you will pass by crofts that belonged to rich farmers. Inside, you will find different exhibitions, including the crofter’s house with a bread stove and a forge, the house of wealthy peasants, or an exhibition dedicated to carpentry and woodworking. It’s a genuine time machine.
The new life of Łebunia Mansion
My trip ended in Łebunia Mansion (Pałac Łebunia), located near the Kashubian Landscape Park. The town of Łebunia dates back to the turn of the 15th century, when it used to belong to the noble house of von Grelle. The land changed hands, until in 1805 it was purchased by Robert Sinner, a commercial councillor. In 1863, he built a beautiful mansion that he later presented to his daughter. It’s surrounded by a 4-hectare park. Unfortunately, the 20th century didn’t treat them kindly. After the war, the government transformed the property into a State Agricultural Farm(PGR), which later fell into ruin. Luckily, the new owners put great effort, both in terms of logistics and finances, to create a wonderful building. What immediately attracts attention are the avant-corps, and semicircular veranda, and a terrace. Inside, eclectic interior awaits, and Christmas decorations set the mood. The mansion houses a restaurant, a library, and SPA zone, where guests can unwind and enjoy massage sessions and other treatments. It’s a perfect location for a romantic getaway with your significant other. You will enjoy the magnificent architecture, regional cuisine, and strolls in the park.
At a first glance, travelling in winter may seem less appealing, but in reality it’s the other way around. It’s an ideal time to take advantage of low season. Słupsk and the surrounding areas offer a wide range of activities to enjoy. You can enjoy art, monuments, fine cuisine, and relax in the mansion’s interior.
