Today, I went for a trip outside the city. Thirty minutes by car from the centre of Gdansk there is Czarny Kos, a restaurant and guest house in Borkowo, which is located in the Kashubian region. Surrounded by green scenery, the restaurant is located near Głębokie Lake (it takes eight minutes to get there on foot), it is a harbinger of peace&relaxation .
I was welcomed in the restaurant by Paweł Białas, creator of the entire concept, who tells me a thing or two about the place:
“The major advantage of our restaurant is its location. We are located close to the Tri-City metropolitan area. At the same time, we are an excellent starting point for any trip around the region. There is a regional train station nearby. We can also be easily reached by car. A lake that is in the immediate vicinity is surrounded by walking and cycling trails that offer an unforgettable experience.”
Although we were headed for the restaurant, I would’ve very much preferred enjoying myself on the wooden terrace. Unfortunately – or not -, the weather forced us to hide within the cosy confines of the restaurant. It was Sunday, the place was swarming with families with children and couples, indulging in fine wine with their dinner. I could hear the children chuckle in the spacious, comfortable playroom (the playroom had been great, which was confirmed by my son who had personally tested it).
Our main topic of conversation was the cuisine of Czarny Kos
“We are in the heart of the Kashubian reigon. Our restaurant draws inspiration from the region’s cuisine, although not directly. We do not re-create local recipes to the letter, but rather “smuggle” Kashubian flavours in our dishes” – said Paweł Białas. “Our dishes are quite simple, but delicious and fair, based on local ingredients. We use products that are currently available to us, and since we live in a culinarily rich environment the flavour palette is broad” – he added.
The restaurant utilises regional suppliers of vegetables, fruit, meat and fish (eg. buying trout in neighbouring town of Rutki, and venison from local hunting clubs). If possible, berries or mushrooms are personally gathered by the restaurant’s staff. The surrounding forests are abundant in raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, cranberries and mushrooms. Czarny Kos has its menu based on the seasonal calendar. The primary menu is changed four times a year, and every week or two there is a seasonal insert with currently available veggie sides. A substantial part of the menu is gluten-free. Most products, including bread, sour dough, pates, meats, pasta, etc. are produced on site. You can try the beer from the local brewery “Końska Grzywa”. If you’re into classics, Goldwasser awaits you together with home-made tinctures that are prepared before the fruit season sets in.
From June to the end of September a new project will be launched on the restaurant’s terrace. It’s codenamed “Z łegnia” , which in Kashubian language means “from the fire”. On weekends, guests will be able to try delicacies from the grill and compose their own meal. This will include meat or fish (there are plans for roasted pigs and fish from local suppliers), various sides and condiments. Sounds delicious!
It’s the time for degustation in Czarny Kos
Meanwhile, I ordered sour rye soup (żurek) with boletus mushrooms, a delicate soup with a hint of mushroom flavour. For the second course, by the chef’s recommendation,
I had dumplings stuffed with white sausage. Simple, and yet how unusual! I had never tried this kind of filling and I was delighted, as it blended perfectly with the delicate dough. I had yet to find place for a delicate duck leg with red cabbage
and “śląskie” dumplings.
And to make things even better, I had a moisty cheescake with potatoes for dessert. For some it may come as a surprise, but believe me, potatoes are are basically imperceptible in a cheescake, at the same time make it delicate and soft.
Oh, I also tasted a few crumbles of homemade bread (with potatoes as well) with lard, homemade brined pickles(magic!) and gluten-free wild boar pate (delicious).
Food in Czarny Kos is sincere and straightforward. The pleasant experience gets even better thanks to friendly service and a laid-back atmosphere. In June you can look out for the Czarny Kos team at the Sopot pier, since the restaurant will be involved in the Slow Food Festival. A year ago, the restaurant received an award during this event, thanks to exclusively prepared, delicious pike cabbage rolls.
Letniskowa 10, Borkowo
phone. + 48 693 044 005