Kaszubska Koza. A master class in cheese making.
Robaczkowo. A small Kashubian village located on the outskirts of Wdzydze Landscape Park, in the Tuchola Forest complex. Today, it is known in Poland because of Kaszubska Koza (Kashubian Goat) farm, run by Honorata and Tomasz. The charismatic owner, like no other, tells stories about his passion to goat breeding and cheese production.
The hosts of Kaszubska Koza specialise in gentle and delicate goat cheeses. The products are so delicate that customers are often amazed that this is how goat cheese can taste. After all, it has a pretty sharp, distinctive flavor.
There is no way to enumerate all kinds of cheese produced on the farm. One of the cheeses, smoked in alder wood smoke with cones and herbs, received first prize during the cheese festival in Lidzbark Warmiński. And this is where it all began. Then there were more experiments, and new prizes, including the gold medal at Poznań for a mild acid-rennet cheese.
The owners are the only in the world to offer a combination of acid-rennet cheese and alcohol. – The cheese ripens in a haze of tinctures and liqueurs, and it is covered with remains of soft fruit from tinctures produced by best Polish manufacturers. This cheese has sweet and sour, fruity flavour, and it is called “the drunk goat” – laughs Tomasz.
The offer also includes brand-dedicated cheese. Porter beer-flavoured, ripening cheese with hops is produced for the local Amber brewery.
Some of the cheese is dedicated to seasons of the year. In late spring gourmets can enjoy the “koza nostra” goat cheese, which is ripened in elderberry flowers and decorated with cornflowers. It was appreciated during the Slow Food festival in Sandomierz.
The owners are constantly working on new cheese flavours. As “refugees” from the city, they discovered their great passion to cheese production in the countryside. This is why the entire process is overseen exclusively by them on every step, from the very beginning until the end. Their devotion to passion, as well as the extraordinary flavour of their products has been appreciated by restaurateurs across Poland. Cheese produced by Kaszubska Koza farm can be found in top Polish restaurants. No wonder that the farm received recommendations from the Gault&Millau Poland guide, Slow Food Poland, and Euro Toques association, chaired by Jean Bos, Belgian master of culinary arts.
How do the owners achieve the unique smoothness of their master goat cheese? -It all depends on the way we raise the goats, how we keep them, and what they are fed with. The production process is also important. It all begins with milk – explains Tomasz. – We have around 70 goats that live on 12 hectares of fenced, unfertilized pastures. The goats are fed with oats, root crops, hay. They are always in enclosures, we do not lock them inside. We milk them on our own twice a day.
The Kaszubska Koza is still open for anyone
The farm is open for anyone who is interested in learning about these unique Kashubian cheeses. The hosts, extremely open and cordial people, encourage their guests to milk the goats on their own or observe cheese production process. The owner argues that it is a great value for visitors. Today, a certificate or assurance that products are ecological simply isn’t enough. Today, the customer wants to experience first-hand how their favourite product is produced.
The owner also has a piece of advice on how to properly enjoy cheese. – It is a living product, pretty much like wine is. If we want to enjoy wine, we open a bottle and let it breathe and gain aroma. In order to eat cheese, we need to take it out of the refrigerator, and wait until it reaches room temperature, releasing its aroma. Eating cheese straight from the refrigerator has no point, as it will not
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