Sztuczka restaurant in Gdynia and I are old friends. I have been their guest since the beginning of its existence. It was here that I had tried a real tasting menu for the first time and it was about Sztuczka that I wrote my first review for a certain culinary magazine. That is why one autumn day I came here again with great pleasure.
Chef of Sztuczka restaurant
This time I was greeted by the head chef Kamil Kołodziejski, who has been associated with this place for three years and has been the chef for a year and a half. I was curious about his view of this restaurant, how a particular person influences a place I know well. Kamil Kołodziejski’s favourite school of cooking is the broadly understood Asian cuisine, especially Japanese. But, as the head chef says: “I try to implement Asian accents into the menu, but I’m not going to carry out a taste revolution here, just weave in my flavours.
The menu changes seasonally, the work on it is collective. We start with a particular ingredient. For example, we take the Jerusalem artichoke and then we think about what to combine it with. It’s all collective work, I don’t impose anything on my team. We comprise a team that works on the form of each menu and that’s cool, because that’s how everyone sneaks in some of their favourite flavours, favourite cuisines and cooking styles.
In each edition of the card, the guest receives a selection of two types of tasting menus to show the chef’s capabilities. In the current menu, there is a choice between an eight-dish and a ten-dish menu, with and without wine selection. The restaurant cooperates with a sommelier, Łukasz Chojnicki, who ensures top quality of the wine available. For beer lovers, there is beer from the local brewery. If you prefer tinctures, there is also something for you.
It pains my heart, but this time I have to skip the tasting menu in Sztuczka. I try three dishes recommended by the chef, instead. We start Kashubian-style, with dessert. And this is the most wonderful experience of the evening – goat cheese cheesecake with beetroot ice cream. The velvety texture of the cheesecake (cheese from regional suppliers, of course) makes every bite literally melt in my mouth. At first you can feel the savoury pinch pinch, so characteristic of creamy goat cheese cheese, and then the countering sweentes. Beetroot ice cream makes everything fresh, and besides (or maybe above all?) it provides magnificent colour. There is also something crispy and unambiguously sweet – thin flakes of meringue and delicious crumble. A cracker dessert!
The second course is duck meat with red cabbage, orange and a piece of roasted white cabbage. The duck is pink and delicate, and its skin crunchy. Everything is as it should be. I fell in love with roasted cabbage: first, it’s slightly simmered, and then roasted on a frying pan. It tastes delicious. It is a real trick to transform a boring cabbage into a side dish that could easily play the main role in our gourmet spectacle.
Finally, I try raibow trout on a plate worthy of Andy Warhol, in neon colours of braised beetroot and sorrel pesto.
I always ask for the chef’s favourite dish from the card, this time was no different. Without hesitation, the head chef pointed to his fish broth with fish and mule terrine and dill oil. He added:
“Sztuczka restaurant has always been known for its delicious butter, we serve it from the very beginning. We season it with roasted butter that has a nutty aroma, which we counter with salt. Every bite of fresh bread with this delicious butter is an experience you remember and return to” .
Yes, I remember that butter and I wish I had room for another slice of that delicious bread. Next time!
Antoniego Abrahama 40, Gdynia
phone. + 48 58 622 24 94